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Toothpaste and razor-less in Amsterdam



 A man in Amsterdam airport


December 21st, in a Radisson hotel at Amsterdam’s Schiphol airport which I chose in a momentary panic of having nowhere to sleep after my transfer flight to Manchester was abruptly cancelled flat. I had milled around the terminal, contemplating if spending the night on a bench was really worth it.


45 minutes later I was on a bus to the hotel, alone. The ride was novel; in a mere 5 hours I’d picked up more Dutch than I ever learned French at school. Did you know that ‘Sauvignon Blanc’ in Dutch is ‘Sovignen Blank’? Or that ‘Telephone’ is ‘Telefoon’? 


At the hotel I had a bath, tried my best to clean myself until sparkling as I had only a single pair of socks and underwear to last me two days. I listened to some Frank Sinatra and took a few photographs, I danced around in my fresh white towel and lamented on how a hotel could provide facial lotion yet no toothpaste. A solemn faced reporter from BBC news informed me of a tragedy in Prague. 


At the bar downstairs, a beer for my troubles. A solitary and handsome young bartender span around his workspace with the grace and efficiency of a ballroom waltzer, opening bottles, filling glasses with gin and tonic.


A Scotsman eating crisps beside me. Old people dotted around the lobby like ink blots on a canvas, each sweatshirt a different colour.


Lives interlinked and lives lamenting on missed connections, weddings cancelled, visits painfully postponed. A girl about my age in the airport fretting over her travelling companion, a bemused housecat in a crate. Angry, fuming people and bored people alike. The hotel is quiet, and it brings me an ethereal sense of comfort. I’ve always liked hotels. I am not Dutch, I don’t know a single soul in this country - perhaps this entire continental landmass? I’m alone, but I’m not. Each stranger is kind, humble, and wonderfully helpful. 


I’m hundreds of miles away from my family, stuck inbetween two countries that I call home. Whittling time away with my camera and a hotel pencil, and a cup of complimentary instant coffee. A haiku;


Dutch sandwich breakfast,

Salvation from hunger pangs.

Tonijn Salade.


That night I dreamt of something comforting. I don’t remember what it was.

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