1072 years ago, Kansai legend goes that a divine spear washed ashore on the Dojima river in Osaka, right at the head of what is now Osaka Tenmangu shrine. This artifact was believed to be that of Sugawara no Michizane - scholar, poet, and a man now revered as the Shinto god of learning, Tenman-tenjin (天満天神). A procession from Tenmangu shrine over both land and water to honor this exalted deity began, and since 951AD, every year the city of Osaka has saluted with an enormous festival; Tenjin Matsuri. It's 7am, 11 centuries, 2 decades, 3 months and 28 days exactly after Michizane passed away. Stepping out onto the street from my humble apartment building I'm struck by the temperature already - even this early, the sun's heat radiates down from a stunningly azure cloudless sky. On the journey to my friend Risa's apartment the Cicada song is occasionally deafening, as if a great static television is screaming from every high cherry and oak tree around. Upon arrival I'...